The food from Spain falls very far from plain: a new wave of Spanish food has arrived in Florida.

There's no doubting Florida's preeminent place in the country's Spanish culinary landscape, and there are outstanding practitioners of the fine art of preparing the classics from the Old World as well as New--everything from the basic caldo gallego to the most overloaded paella, in settings as lively and low cost as Miami's Versailles (3555 S.W. 8th St., 305/444-0240) to Tampa's elaborate and elegant centennial celebrant Columbia, with seven locations statewide (Celebration, Clearwater Beach, Sarasota, St. Augustine, St. Petersburg, Tampa and West Palm Beach).

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