layer by layer

When it comes to technical outerwear, today's consumers are presented with a broader array of fabrication choices than ever before. Think about it. In 1968, Sierra Designs began offering the 60/40 Parka, a non-insulated, lined, water-resistant parka designed for rugged outdoor use. It was considered high-tech for its day.

Then along came W.L. Gore & Assocs. with its patented membrane technology. Gore-Tex waterproof/breathable garments became the technical outerwear fabrications of choice among outdoor users and have remained popular ever since. Offshore fabric manufacturers have, in the intervening years, begun to offer their own waterproof/breathable membrane systems with great success.

In the last two to three years, we've seen new fabric technologies emerge as customer preferences and activity choices have changed. Silicon-encapsulated and silicon-treated fabrics are beginning to compete with traditional waterproof/breathable fabrications in the technical outerwear category.

Three-layer vs. Two-layer. Another trend has emerged with outerwear: Three-layer waterproof/breathable garments are quickly becoming more popular with a wider range of outdoor enthusiasts. Three-layer pieces had traditionally been designed for high-altitude mountaineers who wanted clothing that was highly abrasion-resistant, lightweight, very breathable and dried quickly. Understandably, it began as a small market targeted at early adopters, or those core customers who are the first to pick up new trends.

But, in the last few years, there has been increased demand for three-layer garments as recreational users have begun to look for lighter and more compressible outerwear.

While three-layer pieces are selling well, two-layer waterproof/breathable garments are still very strong. They're still positioned for the less technical user and, as a result, serve a broader customer base. "There's been a tendency to dumb-down two-layer," says John Cooley, vice president of Marmot.

Two-layer garments are still popular with many people because they're quieter than three-layer styles, they're lined so the look is more finished, and they're not as stiff. Customers don't care that two-layer garments aren't as breathable a system as three-layer pieces. And, because the two-layer pieces cost less, they're perceived as more of a value.

Outerwear trends have also shifted as people have changed the way they spend time outdoors. As consumers participate more often in aerobic activities closer to home, their outerwear needs have followed suit. Versatility is important to someone who may mountain bike singletrack in the morning and take a hike or trail run the same day. Rather than carry two separate outfits, they prefer a garment that performs a variety of activities and moves moisture efficiently. "The enemy is moisture trapped inside," says Cooley. "The aerobic user can't afford to get wet."

The answer, according to Cooley, is to use shell fabrics that are extremely breathable and repel water effectively. "Technical users will always carry a waterproof/breathable shell in their packs," he points out. But for the person going out for a day of aerobic activities, the trend is toward the silicon-encapsulated and silicon-treated shell fabrications. They are lightweight, very compressible and not as expensive.

On the Sales Floor. So how are these different options selling at retail? "It depends where you are in the country," says Allen Bishop of Sun and Ski in Nashville, Tenn. "In the Rockies, three-layer outerwear sells all day long. In Nashville, two-layer sells the best."

He estimates that two-layer garments account for 70 percent of sales, and three-layer for 30 percent. But he and most other retailers agree that three-layer outerwear shells are coming on strong.

This has been aided by manufacturers' efforts to educate consumers through POP materials, such as hang tags and rack-top signage. They inform consumers about the features, benefits and end-use of the fabrication and technology. But retail salespeople have actually had the greatest influence on what sells. Let's face it, most staff people in outdoor stores are experienced users and they tend to appreciate the attributes found in more technical fabrications.

So, while a retail salesperson's job is to fit the customer with the right garment for their needs, a little bit of personal opinion enters into the selling process.

The silicon-encapsulated technology Cooley mentioned is relatively new and will take continued education by both sales staff and consumers to build a following.

In the past, you've heard complaints that there's nothing new going on in outdoor clothing. What you'll see for fall 2001 will change that perception. Watch for new fabrications in both two- and three-layer outerwear and check out the treated and encapsulated shells. You'll like what you see.