Case and Counter

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All Cheese Considered: Butter vs. Margarine:
A Healthy Debate
It was a sad day when my mother switched from butter to margarine. She said it was a cost-cutting decision. After all, with two growing boys who already consumed gallons of milk (which she doubled in volume by adding powdered milk), cottage cheese, butter, and any other dairy product that came into the house, thinking about cost was justifiable. But margarine? Puh-lease! Eventually, she switched back to butter, but the experience left me wondering for years why people would prefer using margarine over butter. More than one margarine-devotee has told me they use margarine because they believe it is better for their cholesterol levels. I accepted this tenet in good faith for quite some time, but after a while became suspicious, especially in light of all that we know about trans fats today. I decided to do some research on margarine, and I found some very interesting things. The following then is the skinny on margarine.

Ironically, margarine was invented in France, the most butter-loving country on earth. Just prior to the Franco-Prussian War, France was in turmoil, and butter was scarce and therefore expensive. According to the Oxford Companion to Food, Emperor Napoleon III held a competition to come up with an inexpensive alternative to butter, and it was won by a fellow named Mège Mouriès in 1869. Based on a flawed biological theory, he fashioned a butter substitute using oleo — the oil derived from beef fat, skim milk and water, with a strip from a cow's udder to curdle the milk. Supposedly (there are other theories), he named it after the Greek word for pearl, margarites, because of the pearly sheen of his new invention. Margarine has evolved considerably since that original colorless, tasteless mass, and admittedly, modern manufacturers have worked miracles to bring the flavor of margarine very close to that of butter. Nevertheless, despite margarine's ability to look, taste and perform surprisingly like butter, I've yet to encounter one that has the real buttery taste of butter, or delivers the results of butter in pie crusts, cakes or other baked goods. Why then would anyone choose the imitation over the real thing? For most consumers, it's about health, and herein lies the mystery. Butter is made by churning cream so that the fat globules clump together into a mass with tiny water droplets inside. The process, whether carried out on the front porch of the farmhouse or in a large gleaming factory, is essentially the same. It's very simple, and assuming the cream is of high quality, it's hard to screw it up. Margarine, on the other hand, requires a very complex process involving many steps (the Oxford Companion goes on for two long columns describing the manufacturing process for margarine) and any nutritious elements must be added as opposed to those that naturally occur in butter.

In addition, margarine is very high in trans fatty acids, has the same amount of calories as butter, and is only slightly lower in saturated fats. Studies at Harvard Medical School indicated that eating margarine increased heart disease in women by 53 percent over women who ate the same amounts of butter. Studies have also shown that margarine can increase LDL cholesterol (the bad stuff) and lower HDL cholesterol. It has been shown to lower the quality of breast milk, decrease immune response, decrease insulin response, and increase the risk of certain cancers by several times. Conversely, eating butter can actually increase the absorption of many other valuable nutrients in the diet; butter gives pastry that wonderful buttery flavor and aroma; and quite simply, it tastes better. Now of course, butter is high in saturated fat and its use should probably be kept in check, especially for those who have a problem with cholesterol. But when you want the taste of butter, either on your morning toast or to bake a cherry pie, why choose a substance that even in small quantities has been shown to be extremely unhealthy and doesn't even taste as good? For my money, when I want flavor and performance, I know which side my bread is buttered on, and the pies and cakes, too, for that matter.

INDUSTRY NEWS
A New Cheese Store Rises in the Big Easy
Richard Sutton left New Orleans for London in 2002 intending to be a banker. He got sidetracked, however, and ended up as the manager of Paxton & Whitfield, London's oldest cheesemonger. Besides supplying cheeses to the Queen and the royal family, the House of Lords, and numerous restaurants, he traveled throughout Europe to visit cheesemakers and affineurs. Now he has returned to New Orleans to open his own cheese shop, the St. James Cheese Company at 5004 Prytania Street in the bustling Uptown neighborhood. His aim is to focus on artisanal and farmhouse cheeses, including an extensive collection of domestic varieties. Sutton intends to offer cheeses at their peak of ripeness and will mature them on premises. The shop will also offer a selection of cured meats, pates and other specialty foods. You can find out more about the shop at www.stjamescheese.com.

Coleman Becomes Powerhouse of Natural Foods With Merger
Due to a merger of BC Natural Foods, LLC of Golden, Colo. and KDSB Holdings, LLC of Gainesville, Ga., the newly formed Coleman Natural Foods, LLC becomes the leading processor, marketer and distributor of fresh and further prepared natural and organic proteins in the United States and is now among the country's top 30 meat processors overall. Based in Golden, George A. Chivari, the president and CEO of BC Natural Foods, will hold the same position in Coleman, and Mel Coleman, Jr. will serve as chairman. The new company operates four business units: the Poultry, Meat, Prepared Foods, and Food Service Divisions. Coleman Natural Foods will offer natural and organic products to food retailers, foodservice operations, schools and institutions across the country under the following brand names: Coleman Natural, Coleman Organic, Coleman All Natural Deli, Rocky the Range Chicken, Rocky Jr., Rosie the Organic Chicken, Hans' All Natural, and Hans' Organic. In addition, the company will also include Kings Delight, Clux Delux, Lake Lanier Farms, Anchor Bar, Executive Chef, and Snowball brands. For more information, visit www.colemannatural.com.

A New Cheese Plant
for Grafton Village Cheese
The Grafton Village Cheese Company, maker of award-winning aged cheddar, plans to build a new cheese production plant and retail space in southern Vermont at the Retreat Farm in Brattleboro. Both companies are part of the Windham Foundation, a not-for-profit company that focuses on building and funding programs that support Vermonters and the Vermont way of life. The expansion for Grafton aims to double their current production to three million pounds annually. Grafton Village Cheese handcrafts eight varieties of cheddar that are recognized worldwide for their quality and taste. It was founded in 1892 as the Grafton Cooperative Cheese Company to convert surplus milk from local dairy farmers into cheese. The original factory was destroyed by fire some years later but was restored by the Windham Foundation in the mid-1960s. Although it is in the initial phases of development, the plan calls for a building up to 28,000 square feet that will include a cheese production facility, a retail shop, a cheesemaking viewing area, and office space, and will create at least 25 new jobs.

DAIRY
Fiscalini Debuts New Cheese
John Fiscalini's family has been dairy farming and making cheese for more than 300 years, both here and in Switzerland. That should silence those who say that American cheesemakers lack the centuries of experience that their European counterparts have. His cheeses also bear the stamp of tradition — notably Fiscalini's Bandage Wrapped Cheddar (aged 18-30 months) and an American original, Fiscalini's San Joaquin Gold, both of which won top honors again this year at the World Cheese Awards in London. John and Heather Fiscalini have now debuted their newest creation, a signature Alpine-style cheese called Lionza, named for the town in Switzerland whence the Fiscalinis hail. It is a semi-hard, savory and fragrant, rich and nutty cheese that is excellent at table and can also be used gloriously in the kitchen for salads, pasta, egg dishes, gratins and sauces. "It's a special pleasure to build on the traditions of one's ancestors," said Fiscalini, "and launch this unique 'ancient' cheese with a contemporary twist." For more information, call 209-545-5495, or visit www.fiscalinicheese.com.
CLICK READER SERVICE NO. 401


All-Natural Parmesan-Based Spreads From
Santa Barbara Bay
Santa Barbara Bay has introduced Parmesano's, a new line of all-natural parmesan cheese-based dips in 10-ounce containers. They contain no preservatives or other chemicals, and are made with only natural, fresh ingredients. The thick, rich and creamy dips come in three varieties: Original with roasted garlic, Zesty Red Pepper with roasted red peppers and garlic, and Sun-Dried Tomato & Basil with garlic and chopped basil. The dips are perfect for raw vegetables or crudités, as well as with flatbreads and pita. For more information, call 800-318-7229, or visit www.santabarbarabay.com.
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DELI

Timeless Gourmet From Maple Leaf Farms
Maple Leaf Farms, a market leader and innovator of premium quality chicken entrées, has introduced two new fully cooked breaded Timeless Gourmet Chicken Entrées — Cordon Bleu and Broccoli & Cheese. Both will be distributed under Maple Leaf's brand name, Milford Valley Farms. The delicious, high-quality entrées are affordably priced, are microwaveable, and can be ready to eat in less than three minutes. According to research by the American Frozen Food Institute, convenience continues to be the most appreciated attribute of frozen entrées, and Maple Leaf Farms has delivered that without compromising quality, reducing the cooking time by 90 percent. Also, clear instructions on the package eliminate guesswork and help ensure food safety. For more information, call 800-348-2812, or visit www.mapleleaffarms.com.
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Two New Organic Broths
From Pacific
Pacific Natural Foods has already been a leader in the broth category with its Organic Free-Range Chicken Broth. It's as good as any homemade stock and can be used in myriad applications. Now they have launched their new Organic Low Sodium Vegetable Broth and Organic Beef Broth. Both are USDA-certified organic, are packed in handy, resealable 32-ounce cartons (great when you just need a little stock for a dish), and the Organic Low Sodium Vegetable Broth taps into a growing market for foods with a lower sodium content (the average American adult consumes 4,000 to 6,000 milligrams of sodium daily and the recommended daily allowance is 2,400 milligrams). All of Pacific Natural Foods' products are made with fresh, wholesome, all-natural ingredients that are 'Certified to the Source' ensuring that all ingredients meet the highest standards for safety, health and quality. For more information, call 503-692-9666, or visit www.pacificfoods.com.
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Panorama Debuts Natural Grass-Fed Beef Hot Dogs and Sausages
California-based Panorama Grass-Fed Meats has introduced its Natural Grass-Fed Beef Franks and three flavors of preservative-free, fully cooked Grass-Fed Beef Sausages. They are all made with Panorama's natural Angus grass-fed beef, with no added nitrates or nitrites, and with all the proven health benefits of grass-fed beef. The sausages are available in the following varieties: Jalapeño Sausages, Polish Sausages, and Garlic Sausages. They are available in 12-ounce and 16-ounce packages that have a shelf life of six weeks. Panorama — formerly known as Western Grassfed Beef — worked with Engelhart Gourmet Foods, a long-time sausage producer in Fairfield, Calif., to develop recipes and to produce all four products. It chose natural lamb casings for its franks and natural hog casings for its sausages, rather than synthetic or collagen casings. Panorama's Angus cattle are raised primarily on pasture by 43 family ranchers in California, Oregon and Washington. All Panorama cattle are raised in compliance with the 'Born and Raised in the USA' verification program, which mandates that all cattle be born and raised in the United States and never implanted with hormones, fed animal by-products, or treated with antibiotics. Also, Panorama cattle never eat grain. Ranchers who raise Panorama cattle treat the animals humanely in low stress environments, and employ pasture rotation and land management practices that promote animal health and protect delicate rangeland ecosystems. For more information, call 503-668-8920, or visit www.panoramameats.com.
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New Philly-Gourmet
Sirloin Tip Beef Patties
Quaker Maid Meats has introduced new Philly-Gourmet Sirloin Tip Beef Patties. For many people, the high fat content of frozen burgers has been off-putting. Quaker Maid Meats has solved it by trimming the fat to a bare minimum, resulting in a 96 percent lean patty with just 170 calories and all the benefits of frozen, ready-to-cook protein. Each 4-ounce patty has been infused with a natural solution of flavoring and water to maintain moisture, taste and texture when cooked. The burgers can go straight from the freezer into the frying pan, broiler, microwave or grill, making them ideal for quick dinners, picnics, or any meal where speed and minimum preparation are required. Philly-Gourmet Sirloin Tip Beef Patties come in 2-pound boxes containing eight burgers that are separated by paper for easy handling. For more information, go to www.philly-gourmet.com.
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Pheasant Sausage With Goji
Berries From Fabrique Délices
California's artisanal charcuterie manufacturer Fabrique Délices has introduced its newest creation, All-Natural Pheasant Sausage with Goji Berries. They contain no MSG, no preservatives, and no artificial flavors and are packaged perfectly for the holidays in a 1-pound retail pack with a shelf life of one week in the refrigerator and up to six months frozen. The all-natural pheasant meat is blended with fresh garlic, fresh onions, fresh parsley, black peppercorn, rosemary, and goji berries in an all-natural pork casing for an excellent balance of seasonings and flavor with a pleasant texture. Goji berries were discovered 3,000 years ago in the Himalayas and are considered to be one of the world's most nutrient-rich fruits. They have been honored for centuries among Asian cultures who have believed in the berry's strength-building powers and properties associated with longevity. Unknown in the West until recently, legend has it that the berry was cultivated by monks for thousands of years. Goji berries are rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. The pheasant sausages with goji berries are best either grilled on the BBQ or pan fried in olive oil over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes. For more information, call 510-441-9500, or visit www.fabriquedelices.com.
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