All Cheese Considered: Yogurt

When one ponders the legends surrounding the origin of cheese - the shepherd who put his milk in a goat skin bag, only to find later that the milk had fermented and become something altogether different, it was very likely that what the hapless shepherd came up with first was yogurt, one of the oldest foods known to humans and one that was surely born from just such a happy accident. Yogurt (or yoghurt) has been considered for centuries to be one of the most healthful of foods, and indeed, some of the longest-lived peoples on Earth have it as a staple part of their diets.

It also figures prominently into the cuisine of many Asian and Middle Eastern cultures, from yogurt drinks and cheeses to such refreshing dishes as raita in India, which is made from yogurt, cucumbers, and mint. Yogurt seems to have originated somewhere in Central Asia, though it has for millennia been a staple in Arab countries, as well as throughout the Balkans, Turkey, and the Mediterranean islands. The name itself comes to us from Turkish (yogurt), no doubt because it was through Turkey that yogurt was first introduced to the West (cheese expert Ricki Carroll points specifically to Russian professor Ilya Metchnikoff as the person most responsible for bringing yogurt to the West).

At its simplest, yogurt is made by allowing fresh whole milk to ferment and thicken into a thick, spoonable, slightly tart consistency. In ancient days - and still to some extent in the Balkans and Central Asia, this was accomplished via bacteria that were naturally present in the air. Today in any commercial operation, starter cultures are used to convert the milk (whole, low fat, or non-fat) into yogurt, typically with Streptococcus thermophilus, Lactobacillus bulgaricus, or a combination of the two. Good yogurt may be made from almost any kind of milk, and was no doubt first derived from that of the dri (female yak), water buffalo, and even camel. Today, most of the yogurt sold commercially is from cow's milk, although increasingly, brands are available in the U.S. from goat's milk (a wonderful tangy yogurt), some from sheep's milk, and there is even a company in Vermont making rich and delicious yogurt from a small herd of water buffalo.

A few giant producers dominate the domestic yogurt market, but it is well worth seeking out some of the smaller, traditional yogurt companies, some of which only distribute to their local markets. These are most often more flavorful versions that lack additives and artificial ingredients, and many are made with organic milk, either cow or goat. Since like in cheese the lactose is converted to lactic acid, yogurt has long been popular among people who suffer from lactose intolerance, which may explain its inclusion in the diets of so many Asian peoples.

In addition to being easily digestible, yogurt is also a great source of calcium, protein, and several important minerals. Best of all, yogurt is very versatile in the kitchen. Besides being a terrifically satisfying breakfast food with fresh fruit and a bit of granola, yogurt is great to use in dressings (see below), salads, sauces, as a topping for baked potatoes, and as a marinade. Yogurt makes a good alternative for anything one would normally use sour cream for, and its non-fat versions deliver more flavor than most non-fat sour creams. Also, there are soy yogurts available for those who eschew dairy products altogether.

Recipe: Yogurt, Garlic, and Blue Cheese Dressing (Makes 1 cup.)

In her excellent book Home Cheesemaking (Storey Books), Ricki Carroll offers several recipes using yogurt, as well as recipes for making yogurt, yogurt cheese, and soy yogurt. She also offers starter cultures and other supplies for making yogurt through her company, New England Cheesemaking Supply of Ashfield, Mass. With her kind permission, we present just one of the yummy yogurt dressings she gives in the book.

1 cup (8 ounces) yogurt
4 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt