2002 Personnel Trainer: Soft Italian Cheeses
Friday, February 1 2002
Published on AllBusiness.com
The broad family of Italian cheeses has become indispensable to both cheese retailers and cooks across the nation. From creamy blue cheeses to the majestic hard grating cheeses, Italy is one of the most important cheesemaking countries in our culinary world. Lately, soft, fresh cheeses from Italy have become just as important to American cooks as the more famous hard cheeses. Mozzarella and Mascarpone especially have been gaining acceptance and popularity in recent years; the first is ubiquitous in restaurants and delis throughout the land, even though the quality varies considerably. Mascarpone, while technically not a cheese at all (no starter or rennet is used in its production), is a cultured dairy product that is unique as a culinary ingredient, and once tried, becomes a favorite. The process of making and merchandising these distinctive cheeses, and their use at the table and in the kitchen usually requires some customer education.
How are these soft cheeses made?
Mozzarella is a spun or pulled-curd cheese also known as pasta filata. In Italy, the cheese is made either from cow's milk or that of the water buffalo, but the process for making both is similar. The curds are cut and immersed in hot water to release the whey. The curds then fall to the bottom and form a mass that is lifted out, turned, and kneaded. At this point, the process becomes an art form as the cheesemaker must know instinctively when to stop the pulling or stretching. Too soon and the cheese will be cakey. Too long and the cheese will lose too much of its butterfat, robbing the cheese of texture and flavor. Next, the cheese is put into a brine bath to set up. The whole process must be done quickly and continuously.
Mascarpone, on the other hand, is an acidulated cream. First, the cream is gently heated and citric acid and sometimes tartaric acid is added to it. Gradually, the cream thickens and then is cooled for several hours. Rather than being poured off, the whey is absorbed into the fat and protein. The commercial process involves either a gentle heated stir or an ultrafiltration system that homogenizes the cream, producing a rich, nutty, sweet and versatile cheese-like product. Mascarpone has a very high butterfat content, as much as 70—80% on dry matter (40—45% fat on total product). The sweetness is not from sugar, but rather is due to the high lactose content and the absence of sodium.
What are the differences between "fresh" and "regular" Mozzarella?
The differences are based on the intended use of the cheese. Fresh Mozzarella is generally used whole or sliced, while the regular is commonly shredded or sliced. Fresh Mozzarella has a higher moisture content and is typically packed in water to retain this moisture level. The higher moisture results in a softer texture and mouthfeel. It also
How are these soft cheeses made?
Mozzarella is a spun or pulled-curd cheese also known as pasta filata. In Italy, the cheese is made either from cow's milk or that of the water buffalo, but the process for making both is similar. The curds are cut and immersed in hot water to release the whey. The curds then fall to the bottom and form a mass that is lifted out, turned, and kneaded. At this point, the process becomes an art form as the cheesemaker must know instinctively when to stop the pulling or stretching. Too soon and the cheese will be cakey. Too long and the cheese will lose too much of its butterfat, robbing the cheese of texture and flavor. Next, the cheese is put into a brine bath to set up. The whole process must be done quickly and continuously.
Mascarpone, on the other hand, is an acidulated cream. First, the cream is gently heated and citric acid and sometimes tartaric acid is added to it. Gradually, the cream thickens and then is cooled for several hours. Rather than being poured off, the whey is absorbed into the fat and protein. The commercial process involves either a gentle heated stir or an ultrafiltration system that homogenizes the cream, producing a rich, nutty, sweet and versatile cheese-like product. Mascarpone has a very high butterfat content, as much as 70—80% on dry matter (40—45% fat on total product). The sweetness is not from sugar, but rather is due to the high lactose content and the absence of sodium.
What are the differences between "fresh" and "regular" Mozzarella?
The differences are based on the intended use of the cheese. Fresh Mozzarella is generally used whole or sliced, while the regular is commonly shredded or sliced. Fresh Mozzarella has a higher moisture content and is typically packed in water to retain this moisture level. The higher moisture results in a softer texture and mouthfeel. It also
