All Cheese Considered: Cheshire

Even in a place such as England where the production of many cheeses may be traced back centuries, Cheshire is considered old. Indeed, it is probably the oldest, dating back at least to its inclusion in the Domesday Book in 1086, and more likely to preRoman times. It also seems likely that the Romans, inveterate cheesemakers themselves, contributed their expertise to refine the recipe and increase production while they were in England. Nevertheless, Cheshire is perhaps, along with Cheddar, the most English of English cheeses, often figuring into classic recipes such as those for Welsh Rarebit (see below) or as a component of a ploughman's lunch.

Cheshire owes its distinctive flavor to the rich salt deposits that lay under the Cheshire plain, extending from Cheshire through Shropshire and Staffordshire in northwest England. Officially, the milk must come from cattle grazed in those areas, and must be made there as well in accordance with time-honored recipes and aging requirements. Much of the Cheshire production suffered the same fate as other heretofore farmhouse cheeses during the industrialization of the dairy industry before and after World War II. However, even though today most Cheshire is made in creameries, several farms still produce traditional farmhouse versions, usually wrapped in cloth, dipped in wax, or both. Cheshire comes in white (actually pale yellow), red (dyed with annatto seeds to its more familiar orange), and some even are left to become blue, whether by design or by providence (not coincidentally, these are the colors of the Union Jack).

The flavor of Cheshire is somewhat difficult to describe, but author Steven Jenkins offers that it is "lightly salty, pleasurably savory, and a bit like root beer or horehound candy with undertones of roasted chicken." British cheesemonger Juliet Harbutt refers to its "distinctive sea-breeze taste." The interior of the cheese should be smooth, without holes, and a bit on the dry side, with a tanginess that increases with age. Cheshire is delightful before or after a meal, especially when accompanied by fresh fruit, crusty bread, and either beer or light-bodied wine.

Recipe

Welsh Rabbit (or Rarebit)

The dish's origins and its name are clouded by differing stories and legends, most often associated with a hunting scene. Also, many versions of the dish exist, and a variety of cheeses such as Cheddar or Dutch Gouda can be substituted. This one was adapted from the excellent book The New American Cheese (Stewart, Tabori & Chang) by Laura Werlin. It is easy to prepare and very comforting in the fall and winter after a day of rabbit hunting. Serves 4 to 6.

2 tbsp. unsalted butter
3 tbsp. all-purpose flour
1/2 cup beer or ale
6 to 7 ounces Cheshire cheese, coarsely grated
2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp. dry mustard
Dash of cayenne pepper
4 to 6 slices hearty bread, toasted
8 slices bacon (optional)
8 slices tomato (optional)

In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and stir vigorously for one minute. Add the beer and stir just until the bubbles start to subside, about 30 seconds. Add the cheese, Worcestershire, mustard, and cayenne. Stir constantly until the cheese melts and the mixture is smooth and creamy. Place the toast slices on individual plates and top with the cheese mixture. If you like, place bacon and/or tomato slices on top of the cheese. Serve immediately.