The Cheese Course: The Tools of the Trade, Part II

Last month, I explained the benefits of using a cheese trier or cheese iron to evaluate a cheese's maturity. This T- shaped cheese knife is used to extract a core sample from the cheese, which is then evaluated for texture, creaminess, aroma, depth of bluing, and taste. It allows the cheesemonger to evaluate the cheese without cutting it open.

This month. I would like to present guidelines for the proper use of a cheese iron.

Cheese Iron Guidelines
1. Always go straight into the cheese, never at an angle.
2. Enter from the side, not the top.
3. Apply the point of the iron to the point of entry -- halfway up the side of the cheese.
4. Gently tap the cheese through the cloth (or rind), using the iron's T like the head of a nail and your fist as a hammer until you break through the cloth. If there is no cloth, press the tip in, and push the iron straight into the cheese.
5. Once you have the tip into the cheese's center, spin the iron 360 degrees to free the plug from the cheese itself. Do not pull the iron out while you are making the 360-degree turn.
6. Pull the iron straight out.
7. Evaluate the plug on the iron based on the following:
- Smell.
- Look at the cheese. Check the plug's texture -- are there air holes, cracks, blue veins?
- Examine the back of the iron. Is there a smear on the iron? Is the cheese moist or dry? (This primes your palate for the next step.)
- Tasting. Cut a small V out of the center of the plug.
- Take the cheese between your fingertips and smoosh it between your fingers.
- Smell the cheese.
- See if it crumbles or sticks together.
- Taste the cheese.
- The smooshing warms the cheese up to prep it for your mouth and your nose.

8. It is VERY IMPORTANT to replace the rest of the plug into the cheese.
9. Smear a bit of cheese over the plug's top on the outside of the wheel to prevent air from entering.
10. When you cut the cheese, CUT ALONG THE IRON MARK to avoid selling someone a piece of cheese that has a bit out of the center and a plug mark in it!
P.S. A cheese iron is also extremely useful on ripe melon selection. Make sure your produce monger is agreeable.

For more information on cheese irons or to have your questions about cheese addressed in a future Cheese Course column, please contact Debra Dickerson at debradickerson@msn.com or send your question to The Deli Digest Editor at jstrailey@gourmetretailer.com.

The Cheese Course columnist Debra Dickerson is co-owner of 3D Cheese, an Oakland, Calif.-based consultancy specializing in retailer sales and education for farmstead and artisan cheese.

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