Carmen isn't just a pretty face.

Alvaro Espinoza did a whirlwind tour of the United States a few weeks ago (Chicago, San Francisco, Seattle, Los Angeles) to show new releases and new wines from Carmen Vineyards, the 19th century Chilean winery now owned by Bodegas Centenarias, one of Chile's largest companies.

Meeting

Espinoza, a second generation winemaker who trained at the University of Bordeaux and has worked at Chateau Margaux and Moet & Chandon, was clearly excited about the wines. Even the "mistake" Petite Sirah. Yes, a Petite Sirah from Chile. I mentioned that I was surprised to see such a thing and Espinoza said he, too, was surprised.

Espinoza had ordered Syrah cuttings from a California nursery. When wine was made from the young plants it seemed a little strange for Syrah, so experts were called in. It turned out the Syrah was actually Petite Sirah. But it also turned out to be a very good Petite Sirah. Espinoza added 20% Merlot to soften the harsh tannins and made a very tasty wine.

Espinoza likes to blend between varietals and vineyards. "I think that blending makes the best wines." The exceptions in his current lineup are wines from Casablanca Valley, a cool coastal valley between Santiago and the port of Valparaiso. (All Carmen wines carry the Valle Central designation but grapes come from the Maipo Valley as well as Casablanca.) The 1996 Sauvignon blanc Reserve, with great depth and concentrated fruit is from that relatively new growing area where grapes were first planted in 1982.

"A few years ago, there was nothing there," Espinoza said. "Now there are vineyards everywhere and many new wineries being built." Carmen Vineyards now has 12 hectares (one ha. = 2.47 acres) of Chardonnay and 12 hectares of Sauvignon blanc planted. The winery recently purchased another 100 hectares and will be planting Pinot noir and Merlot.

Concha y Toro has new plantings in Casablanca and Agustin Huneeus of Franciscan Vineyards has extensive plantings there and is putting the finishing touches on Veramonte Winery.

Espinoza believes the area could become the "Napa" of Chile, not only because of the quality of the grapes but because of its location between Santiago and Valparaiso.

Both the Reserve Sauvignon blanc and the regular bottling (1997) are made entirely in stainless steel, but left on the lees to add complexity and flavor.

The 1997 Chardonnay is given six hours of skin contact at 50 degrees, with 90% fermented and kept in stainless steel and 10% barrel-fermented in American oak.

The delicious 1996 Merlot is also a product of stainless, except for an addition of 15% Cabernet Sauvignon which was aged in oak. The Merlot sells 50,000 cases in the U.S. (at $7.99 a bottle full retail) and another 50,000 cases around the world. It is the largest selling wine for Carmen. Carmen's total shipments are over 300,000 cases annually.

Espinoza made a probably one-time only Chardonnay-Semillon blend in 1995. "Because of the richness of our old-vine Semillon, I wanted to make a traditional Australian blend. Now the Semillon is used to make a late harvest wine." Espinoza said because it rarely rains at harvest in Chile he is starting a program to have the grapes sprayed to induce botrytis.

Espinoza aims at full extraction in the Carmen Cabernet wines, which are barrel-finished in a mix of American and French oak. A limited bottle 1995 Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon is made from old vines on an organic vineyard on the estate. It's a very concentrated wine. Espinoza said it was possible that a separate line of wines made from organic grapes might be coming along in the future (Brown-Forman is international marketer and Carmen is part of B-F's international wine portfolio).

Another impressive red wine is the 1996 Grand Vidure Cabernet Reserve. "We believe what we call the Grand Vidure grape is what many in Chile call Merlot. It is a grape the French call Carmenere and was once important in Bordeaux. In Chile, the growing conditions are very good for it. I call it Grand Vidure because it sounds more Spanish to me."

Whatever you call it, it makes a magnificent wine. This particular version is a blend of 60% Grand Vidure and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.

We also tasted a 1993 Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine made from an old vine vineyard with a yield of under four tons per hectare, amazingly low for Chile.

"I had to fight to save the vineyard. It was going to be pulled out. I kept the wine separate and decided it was just too good to blend. I took samples before the winery directors and convinced them we should bottle it as a separate wine. We didn't make the wine in 1994 or 1996, but the 1995 will be coming on the market soon. Maybe we will make a 1997, but I am not sure," Espinoza said.

His fight was worthwhile. It is perhaps the best Chilean wine I've tasted - rich and deeply concentrated, every element of the wine in harmony, with a long finish.

"I think this wine really expresses the terroir of Maipo," Espinoza said. Espinoza said he wants Carmen wines "to display the uniqueness of the fruit, the soils and the climates."

Neal Santorella, the brand manager for Carmen who is based at B-F in Louisville, said he felt Chilean wines were getting beyond the 1.5 liter good value category. "It's all about changing the image and perception and I do think that is happening," he said. "We established the reputation of Chilean wines at a low price point, now we have to prove it at a higher price point."

Marsha Damian, the field market manager for the Western region for B-F Wine Brands, said she believed as the wine consumer becomes more aware of the global wine market, it would help Chile establish its own reputation.

New Zealand wine exports to the U.S. showed impressive growth for the year ending June 30, 1997, according to the Wine Institute of New Zealand. Shipments were up 175% in value and 170% in volume, increasing from $NZ 1.5 million to over $NZ 4 million. The U.S. now accounts for 6% of the world market for New Zealand wines, doubling the 3% figure of the previous year.

White wines lead the exports to the U.S., holding 80% of the market. Red wines at 10.6% and sparkling wines at 9.3% round out the export picture.

The United Kingdom, traditionally the biggest market for New Zealand wines, holds 62% of the export market, down from 67% last year.