THE NUTRITIONAL PLUSsES & MINUSES OF: MENUING FISH

The average American eats about 15 lbs. of fish annually. In the past decade, fish consumption rose about 25%.

What are the health benefits of fish? And: Are fish safe to eat?

Nutritional benefits: Fish are excellent sources of protein, and most fish are low in calories, fat, saturated fat and cholesterol. The fat is mostly polyunsaturated including omega-3 fatty acids. (While 4 oz. of broiled sirloin contains about 240 cals., 10 gm. fat, and 102 mg. cholesterol, 4 oz. broiled snapper has only about 140 cals., 2 gm. fat, and 54 mg. cholesterol.)

Fish also provides B-vitamins (e.g., thiamine, B-12, niacin) and minerals including iodine, potassium, iron, zinc, copper, phosphorus and selenium. Canned fish with edible bones (e.g., salmon, sardines) also supply Vitamin D and calcium. For example, 3 oz. of canned salmon has 200 mg. calcium—as much as 6 oz. of milk.

Cholesterol content: Contrary to popular belief, the cholesterol content of most fish is low. Old analytical methods overestimated the cholesterol content of fish.

In general, 3-1/2 oz. of fish contains only 50 to 70 mg. of cholesterol. That's less cholesterol than a skinless chicken or turkey breast (85 mg.). Shrimp and crayfish contain about one-and-a-half to two times as much cholesterol as an equal amount of lean beef (80 mg.), but less than an egg yolk (216 mg.).

But, don't worry. Since shellfish are low in fat, but rich in heart-healthy omega-3 fats, they are not more likely to raise blood cholesterol than lean meat or skinless poultry.

Saturated fat seems to affect blood cholesterol levels more than dietary cholesterol does. Shellfish, like finfish, are low in saturated fat. So eaten in moderation, shellfish can fit into a healthy diet.

Nutritional drawbacks: Fresh and saltwater fish are naturally low in sodium (salt). But, pickled, smoked, dried and canned fish may contain up to 10 times more sodium as well as more calories and fat. Low sodium canned fish is available.

Draining the water and rinsing water-packed fish (e.g., canned tuna) in a strainer removes a lot of salt. Even after draining off oil, oil-packed fish contains more salt, fat and calories (and less omega-3 fats) than water-packed fish. About 15%-25% of the omega-3 fats dissolves in the packing oil (usually vegetable oil) and is lost when the oil is discarded. (Tip: Serve water-packed tuna, and use lowfat mayonnaise sparingly.)

Surimi, or imitation crab, is usually made from Alaskan pollock (whitefish). It is high in protein and low in fat (including omega-3 fats) and cholesterol. Some vitamins and minerals are removed in processing. Also, surimi can contain up to 10 times more sodium than shellfish.

Omega-3 fatty acids: Scientific research on the health benefits of omega-3 fatty acids is still preliminary and inconclusive. The two main omega-3 fatty acids in fish are eicosapentenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexenoic acid (DHA). In general, fish that are firm and dark in color have more omega-3 fats.

Best food sources are canned or fresh fatty fish: salmon, sardines, herring, trout, anchovies, swordfish, halibut, bluefish, mackerel, tuna, and shellfish.

The optimal intake of omega-3 fats is unknown. Some experts estimate that for disease prevention we need at least 3,500 mg. a week.

Omega-3 fats may reduce risk of heart disease and ischemic stroke by reducing high blood triglycerides (FSD, 3/15/98, p. 108) and high blood pressure, slowing blood clotting, preventing plaque buildup in arteries, stabilizing heart rhythm, and raising blood levels of "good" HDL-cholesterol (not lowering "bad" LDL-cholesterol).

Omega-3 fats may also relieve symptoms of inflammatory diseases like rheumatoid arthritis and psoriasis (skin condition). Newborn infants need omega-3 fats for brain development and vision. Research continues on whether omega-3 fats can slow tumor growth or prevent migraine headaches.

Fish oil supplements: Most research studies with omega-3 fatty acids use several fish oil capsules a day (providing the equivalent of at least 8 oz. of fish daily). Fish oil supplements are not advised, unless prescribed by a physician. They may not be safe or effective.

Optimal doses and long-term effects are unknown. Fish oil supplements contain a lot of fat and calories, and may be high in cholesterol. Cod liver oil is rich in Vitamins A and D which can be toxic in large amounts.

Fish oil supplements may also prolong bleeding and promote hemorrhagic strokes.

Tip: Instead of taking fish oil supplements, eat fish two or three times a week.

Cooking tips: Here are some pointers for cooking fish:

(1) Fatty, moist fish (e.g., tuna or salmon steak) can be grilled, baked, roasted, blackened or broiled (dry-heat methods). It won't dry out or lose shape.

(2) Leaner fish (e.g., flounder, haddock, snapper) can be steamed, stir-fried with a little oil, poached, or microwaved (moist-heat methods). Use lowfat ingredients for a poaching liquid: tomato, lemon, lime, or orange juice, wine, or vegetable bouillon. Incorporate lean fish into soups, chowders, stews, and pasta salads.

(3) Moderately fatty fish (e.g., pompano, trout, swordfish) can be cooked by either moist-heat or dry-heat methods.

(4) Avoid frying and breading fish or cooking in butter, cream, or cheese sauces which adds fat and calories. Instead of high fat tartar sauce, try a fruit salsa for fish.