Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Carol Deptolla column: The best new restaurants of 2009
PrintDec. 17--Are restaurateurs the most optimistic people on Earth?
In a daunting economic climate, new restaurants continued to give diners more choices in 2009. It was the rare place that was high-end, though. Most seemed intent on offering more affordable meals -- often small plates, home-style comfort food, ethnic dishes, burgers and sandwiches.
And many did it in style. They offered surroundings, either cozy or stimulating, that would encourage customers to put their cares aside for a while and enjoy an evening out.
A number had staff members who made me truly feel like a welcomed guest for the evening and conveyed excitement about the dishes they were serving.
Service and atmosphere were considered for this list, but food was foremost. It's always the food.
New restaurants that were the subject of starred reviews this year were eligible, even though some opened in 2008. Note that my favorite dishes might no longer be available at some restaurants, either because they were seasonal or because the menu has undergone a revamping.
Here are the new restaurants that I considered notable for their contributions to the area's dining scene, in alphabetical order.
Charro Tacos & Tequila
---- overall
729 N. Milwaukee St.; a second Charro opened in September at 17800 W. Blue Mound Road, Brookfield.
Downtown, (414) 431-5557;
Brookfield, (262) 782-7253
charrorestaurante.com
What it does: Riffs on pan-Latin, Tex-Mex and Mexican-influenced fare, with a contemporary edge.
Why it's on the list: Charro offers a complete experience, with sleek, dramatic surroundings and polished service to complement delicious food. It offers the gamut -- from nachos, hot wings and burritos to elegant entrees, fresh ceviches and tasty desserts.
Favorite dishes: Empanadas; ceviches; butternut squash soup with Caribbean spices; chimichanga with pork and eggs; warm rice pudding.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/41456947.html
Ginger on 2nd
---- overall
235 S. 2nd St., at W. Oregon St.
(414) 220-9420
gingermilwaukee.com
What it does: Global and contemporary small plates.
Why it's on the list: Ginger offers a mix of shareable -- or hoggable -- tapas-style plates with something for vegetarians and omnivores alike. Tasty sauces that are out of the ordinary put an exclamation mark on well-prepared, flavorful dishes.
Favorite dishes: Salmon and martini sauce, hanger steak skewers, rosemary pepper lamb chops, spinach salad with grilled figs; at brunch, filet with red wine poached egg and hash browns, and bacon cornmeal pancakes.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/39806672.html
Honeypie Cafe
---- overall
2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave.
(414) 489-7437
honeypiecafe.com
What it does: Pays homage to the Midwest in outsize sandwiches, homey entrees and old-fashioned desserts.
Why it's on the list: Casual Honeypie, with its North Woods decor, emphasizes from-scratch, homey cooking, and the results are satisfying and delicious. It follows a back-to-basics philosophy, making its own sausage and pickled veggies. And pies, of course. Honeypie strives to obtain ingredients from local producers. There's lots of meat -- the cooks practically use bacon the way other restaurants use parsley -- but Honeypie remembers vegans on its menu, too.
Favorite dishes: Pork fries; chicken and biscuit pie; Fancy Mac; Iowa Skinny pork cutlet sandwich; black bottom banana cream pie.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/53074392.html
Juniper 61
---- overall
6030 W. North Ave., Wauwatosa
(414) 727-6161
juniper61.com
What it does: Sandwiches, entrees and weekly specials that hew to the seasons and tap into world flavors.
Why it's on the list: Flavors are full and on the mark in the array of sandwiches and shorter list of entrees. Especially in summer and fall, creative specials take advantage of local produce. At the bar are house-infused liquors; for dessert, there's pie. What's not to like?
Favorite dishes: Orange-basil tuna steak sandwich; Turkish lamb pita; Juniper pork tenderloin; rhubarb pie; just about any special.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/42290927.html
La Dolce Vita
-- 1/2 overall
1673 N. Farwell Ave.
(414) 277-7750 or (414) 277-7751
mydolce-vita.com
What it does: Mediterranean dishes, with a number from Morocco, the owner's homeland.
Why it's on the list: Finally, diners can try a variety of complexly seasoned Moroccan dishes without having to drive to Chicago. The setting is casual but pleasant, with whitewashed walls and cobalt blue trim evoking Morocco.
Favorite dishes: Pastilla, the chicken-almond pie in thin pastry; saffron lemon chicken; sweet couscous; beef tagine; merguez panino; and two spicy appetizers, calamari a la plancha and marinated olives.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/52593102.html
Smyth
---- 1/2 overall
500 W. Florida St., in the Iron Horse Hotel
(414) 831-4615
theironhorsehotel.com
What it does: Fine dining with homey and Midwestern touches in a vintage industrial setting.
Why it's on the list: Considerate, attentive service and an impressive setting in a renovated factory and warehouse enhance the meal. The food itself is refined, even when given a homey spin.
Favorite dishes: Steamed mussels with sausage, Swiss chard and white beans in tomato broth; venison osso buco; buttermilk pan-fried chicken.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/56971242.html
Wasabi Sushi Lounge
---- overall
15455 W. Blue Mound Road, Brookfield
(262) 780-0011
wasabisakelounge.com
What it does: Fresh sushi, creative rolls and Asian fusion entrees.
Why it's on the list: Wasabi has substance to go with its stylish, modern dining room: Precisely assembled rolls are built on beautifully fresh fish, and knowledgeable servers help guests navigate the menu.
Favorite dishes: Sashimi plate; king crab sunomono; chicken kushi; Red Dragon roll; entrees of teriyaki-glazed filet and garlic shrimp.
Full review: www.jsonline.com/features/dining/48294167.html
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