Playing Heavy Metal with Metallic Epoxies

You might think some of the far-out effects you are able to obtain with metallic and iridescent epoxies are heavily influenced by heavy metal rock n' roll and

Metallic epoxies are still undoubtably considered a niche market, but there is simply not another product available that can give you the unique look these high-performance coatings offer.

Our first large job using metallics was five years ago on a 6,000sq.-ft. restaurant. When patrons walked across this floor for the first time, most of the responses were an overwhelming "Wow!" Even with such a heavy "wow factor" with these rich looking floors, they're not for everyone, and you have to discuss the products with your customers in order to find the right market for them.

Application

When it comes to metallic coatings, the same rules apply as with other resinous coatings - surface preparation is a must! Usually a CSP (concrete surface profile) between three and five is desirable, which can be achieved a variety of ways ranging from dustless grinding, shot blasting or acid etching, to name a few.

Once you have completed the necessary surface preparation, the next step usually starts with a bonding primer. We have had great success using the actual metallic epoxy thinned down roughly 10 percent as our primer, especially since we need to change the color of the underlying gray concrete. Priming is an important step for adhesion in addition to helping cut down on out-gassing bubbles. Depending on ambient and substrate temperatures, the primer is usually dry within five to 10 hours.

Once you have successfully gotten this far in the application, the fun really begins. Note to concrete contractors - some good music may actually set the mood for your artistic ability.

The basic one-color application is usually hand troweled down since rolling can leave distinct lines and troweling leaves a non-directional pattern. Depending on how the coating is setting, which can be between 15 minutes to roughly one hour, you may want to come back and spritz the surface with solvent. We have successfully used MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), denatured alcohol or acetone in either small pump up or hand sprayers, lightly misting the surface. The volume you put down and the spray pattern you use will determine the effect. The effects can range from three-dimensional craters to a heavy bush hammered look. You can have additional fun when you bleed in a multitude of colors using opaque pigmented epoxy combined with metallic epoxy wet in to wet.

Typically we will top coat over the cured coating with either aliphatic polyurethane or several coats of a mop down floor finish, depending on the environment.

I highly encourage you to experiment with this material and create your own special effects to dazzle your clients. A word of caution: Stay away from the 60's type of psychedelic influence unless your client is asking for a tie-dyed effect or paisley print.

Good luck!