Ethnic foods favor curry...but don't tell anyone.

Hot, pungent, sweet or fruity, spicy curry flavors the growing market for ethnic foods.

An ethnic invasion is going on in supermarkets as consumers explore the unique spicy flavors of curry. Yet although Americans are becoming more familiar with Asian and Indian seasonings, there's still

"There's a perception and stigma against the word 'curry,'" says Harshad Parekh, president of Tamarind Tree Ltd., Mahwah, N.J., a processor of Indian entrees. "The reason is that curry is a misunderstood word. Americans think that it's one particular blend of spice, and it's not. Curry is a generic word for spice combinations."

And that's precisely why Tamarind Tree, which offers seven shelf-stable Indian entrees, has avoided using the word "curry" in its products. Instead, products have ethnic names and enticing descriptions such as Navratan Korma (creamy vegetables with pistachios and raisins) and Baingan Bharta (purple eggplant in spicy garlic sauce). "None of the seven entrees have the same spicing, but all are considered a form of curry," says Parekh.

Despite the negative image, though, curry products do sell. The retail market for Indian foods was estimated at $9 million in 1994, with an expected growth rate of 15 to 20 percent per year, says Parekh. And Tamarind Tree itself has experienced 30 percent growth over the past five years.

Similar growth is expected in the retail market for Thai foods. "Perhaps even greater because our distribution is certainly increasing," says Frank Landrey, president of Andre Prost, Old Saybrook, Conn., marketer of A Taste of Thai, a line of 30 different Thai products. "People are becoming adventuresome - much more so than even five or six years ago."

Americans' interest in ethnic foods can be tied to the growing trend toward vegetarianism and healthier eating, suggests Parekh. Many ethnic cuisines tend to be based on grains and vegetables rather than meats, so they fit nicely within the new USDA dietary guidelines. Beyond their naturally healthy allure, ethnic foods have the added traction of unique flavors and textures.

While the market for ethnic foods is stronger on the coasts because more new immigrants settle there and consumers are more open to trying new foods, demand is growing in the heartland as well because of changing demographics and a more transient population.

THE CURRY MYSTIQUE

Until very recently, most Americans thought of curry as one particular spice with one distinct flavor. This notion is beginning to change - albeit slowly - as Americans are exposed to more varieties of ethnic cuisines. "The American impression of curry is changing," says corporate chef Bill Hahne, Eatem Gourmet Foods, Bloomington, Ind. "The advent of Thai and Near East restaurants is changing that."

"Consumer attitude is changing," agrees Camille Appel, manager of consumer communications, McCormick Schilling Division, Hunt Valley, Md. "Curry is being pulled along by other cuisines - Thai and Caribbean."

To really understand curry, you have to go back about 5,000 years to India. "Curry is not only a combination of spices, but also a method of cooking," says Susheela Uhl, a Mamaroneck, N.Y.-based consultant specializing in ethnic foods.

Originally, spices used in this method of cooking were chosen more for their antiseptic and medicinal qualities than their flavor. "Spices and food in general were an integral part of the Indian system of well-being," say Sheldon Greenberg and Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz in their book, "The Spice of Life." "Every food has a temperature, not a physical temperature, but an effect upon the body system which is expressed as hot or cold."

Although ingredient choices can vary based on geographic location, religious and cultural beliefs, "basic Indian curry is cumin, coriander, turmeric for color, and black or red pepper for heat," says Uhl. "Then you can add cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, mace, mustard seeds, fenu-greek and herbs such as curry leaves and bay leaves."

Cooks, like artists, use a palette of herbs and spices to create a desired flavor combination. Garlic, ginger, poppy seeds, cilantro, nigella, saffron and a wide variety of peppers can be added to the basic ingredients. In northern India, the curries are milder; to the south, they're hotter. Fruits and nuts contribute to the sweeter milder curries, while different amounts and varieties of peppers fuel the hotter versions.

Amounts and types of spices and herbs vary from dish to dish. Traditionally, spices were purchased whole and separately - not as a mixture - and then roasted and ground by hand. Cooking the spices by either roasting, toasting or sauteing adds a different dimension to their flavor. Great care is also given to the order and time in which spices are added to the cooking process. These factors are very important to the final flavor of a dish.

"The idea that you throw all the seasonings in a dish at the onset of cooking has changed in the last 15 years," says Hahne. "Sequential seasonings give you the full flavor of the spices. Milder herbs and spices go in at the end of the cooking cycle, and less salt is used this way because it's added at the end."

RELATED ARTICLE: COMPLEMENTARY CONDIMENTS

Many curries are accompanied by condiments to either give a soothing respite from a fiery dish or to add a kick to a milder one. Typical condiments include:

* Toasted spiced coconut

* Mango chutney

* Fresh cucumber

* Yellow pickles

* Sweet pickles, chopped

* Sunflower seeds

* Ginger chutney

* Coriander chutney

* Coconut chutney

* Tomato chutney

* Date-lemon chutney

* Fresh mint chutney

* Tamarind chutney

* Chick peas

* Chile and tomatoes, chopped

* Chopped hard-cooked eggs

* Chopped chive

* Fennel seed

Source: McCormick & Co. Inc. Research Kitchens, Hunt Valley, Md.