Ethnic foods favor curry...but don't tell anyone.

Hot, pungent, sweet or fruity, spicy curry flavors the growing market for ethnic foods.

An ethnic invasion is going on in supermarkets as consumers explore the unique spicy flavors of curry. Yet although Americans are becoming more familiar with Asian and Indian seasonings, there's still

"There's a perception and stigma against the word 'curry,'" says Harshad Parekh, president of Tamarind Tree Ltd., Mahwah, N.J., a processor of Indian entrees. "The reason is that curry is a misunderstood word. Americans think that it's one particular blend of spice, and it's not. Curry is a generic word for spice combinations."

And that's precisely why Tamarind Tree, which offers seven shelf-stable Indian entrees, has avoided using the word "curry" in its products. Instead, products have ethnic names and enticing descriptions such as Navratan Korma (creamy vegetables with pistachios and raisins) and Baingan Bharta (purple eggplant in spicy garlic sauce). "None of the seven entrees have the same spicing, but all are considered a form of curry," says Parekh.

Despite the negative image, though, curry products do sell. The retail market for Indian foods was estimated at $9 million in 1994, with an expected growth rate of 15 to 20 percent per year, says Parekh. And Tamarind Tree itself has experienced 30 percent growth over the past five years.

Similar growth is expected in the retail market for Thai foods. "Perhaps even greater because our distribution is certainly increasing," says Frank Landrey, president of Andre Prost, Old Saybrook, Conn., marketer of A Taste of Thai, a line of 30 different Thai products. "People are becoming adventuresome - much more so than even five or six years ago."

Americans' interest in ethnic foods can be tied to the growing trend toward vegetarianism and healthier eating, suggests Parekh. Many ethnic cuisines tend to be based on grains and vegetables rather than meats, so they fit nicely within the new USDA dietary guidelines. Beyond their naturally healthy allure, ethnic foods have the added traction of unique flavors and textures.

While the market for ethnic foods is stronger on the coasts because more new immigrants settle there and consumers are more open to trying new foods, demand is growing in the heartland as well because of changing demographics and a more transient population.