Green coffee grading Part 2: Robert Barker continues to explore the many facets and intricacies to grading coffee--the last of a two-part series.

Specialty Coffee

The concept of gourmet coffee was established in the 1960-70's with increased popularity in neighborhood coffeehouses. It became fashionable to indulge in espresso beverages and emulate the European lifestyle. Until this time green coffee in the United States was not generally available for purchase in amounts less than a full twenty foot ocean container of 37,500 pounds. Today there are many traders who buy containers of high quality coffee, store it in bonded warehouses and parcel it out in single and multiple bag units to small roasters.

Specialty coffee traders recognize that certain regions consistently produce coffees with unique cup characteristics so in some cases the region becomes part of the grade description. Harrars are very different from Yergacheffes. Antiguas are different from Atitlans. Sumatra, Sulawese and Java coffees have little in common other than all being Arabicas from Indonesia. Often altitude is a critical factor in a coffee's taste because climate and soil composition make contributions to the cup. In specialty coffee, marketing is highly dependent on the subtleties that define cup character. As with wines, many specialty coffees are marketed under Private Estate names.

The SCAA recognizes two grades, "Specialty" and "Premium". Grading defects are listed in two categories depending on the severity of impact on the coffee. Certification for Specialty grade allows no defects from category "one" and a maximum of five full defects from category "two". Premium grade certification is granted with up to eight full defects from both categories. Moisture content, bean size and clean smell of the green coffee are also considered before approval. An illustrated chart is available from the SCAA defining grade. Some defect terms will differ from those used by the Exchange and exporters (see "SCAA Defect Categories" chart on p.26).

Importance of Confirming Grades

The FDA determines the minimum quality for import. After that, the importance of grade depends on whom you ask. Roasters may have a different emphasis than importers. Grade, taste and value are all interconnected in the mind of the roaster. For whole bean sales, appearance is more important. Freshness is also very important because the fresher the green beans the brighter the taste. Without a thorough knowledge of grades and cup quality, a buyer has no common language to discuss quality with suppliers. Demanding quality should be a priority. It's good for the roaster; it's good for the industry.