MILITARY FASHIONS For Women & Youth

The army/navy store, once almost an exclusively male experi- 1 ence, has, like the military itself, opened its ranks to the fairer gender. Women today are owners and managers of army/navy stores and account for a substantial segment of their customers. Children and teenagers comprise an even larger

"There are many retailers who do not do anything for women," said Rothco's John Ottaviano. "They are missing fifty percent of the population and leaving a ton of money on the table."

One advantage of selling women's clothing, he said, is that there is very little price pressure and retailers can make large margins.

Rothco has extensively promoted its lines of women's garments, including loose-cut vintage fatigues, which have become a top seller. Ottaviano notes that the December issue of Elle featured the singer Beyonce Knowles in a pair of vintage fatigues.

Other popular items from Rothco include Capri pants and raglan, two-tone sleeve T-shirts for women.

In accessories, Rothco's military Woodland canvas totes and shoulder bags, which women convert to handbags or book bags, are strong sellers and produce good margins for the retailer, said Ottaviano.

Rothco's sales of female oriented merchandise are especially strong in small towns in the south and midwest.

"Women's clothing continues to be the greatest source of growth in our industry," Ottaviano said.

For Harold Hirsch of Schreck Wholesale, the traditional dark navy blue peacoat remains the best selling fashion item to women.

"It has been popular for many years and is still going strong," said Hirsch.

In Schreck's retail store, Hirsch sells peacoats primarily in women's sizes but some women, he notes, prefer to buy a men's peacoat.

Pink t-shirts with names of the various branches of service in black lettering sell well to young women, Hirsch notes.

He estimates that women make up 15 percent of the customers in his retail store.

In Warren, Ohio, Marty Cohen of Mickey's Army and Navy continues to sell Rothco's Woodland BDUs to both men and women, and does a strong trade in Rothco women's garments in large sizes.

"In our market area there are a lot of plus-sized women, and they can be part of that fashion, which is usually not the case in department stores," Cohen said. "Instead of having to buy men's size, they can buy a female size that is more realistic."

For younger women, Cohen carries junior sizes. "We can fit women from size two to eighteen in camo apparel," he noted.

John Abbasi, owner of Armed Forces Outfitters in Gastonia, North Carolina also enjoys strong sales of peacoats to women. In addition to traditional dark blue, Abbasi sells women's sizes in camo and red.

In warm weather, he has sells large quantities of Rothco's Woodland camo bikinis. T- shirts of all types are always popular with female customers.

"If a woman comes in here and wants to buy a military item, we can at least sell her a t-shirt in traditional woodland camo," he said.

Military boots-combat and jungle boots-are popular as a fashion item with Abbasi's female customers.

Some women favor insulated coveralls as a fashion item, Abbasi noted. Lightweight military style shoulder bags are also popular.

Abbasi estimates his sales to women comprise five percent of his annual business. In contrast, sales of children's merchandise comprise 15-20 percent. In addition, Abbasi estimates that 30 percent of the customers who walk through his door are children or teen-agers.

"Children have always been interested in military clothing and gear," he said. "After school and on week-ends our stores is filled with kids. Many have relatives who are in the military, and they want to have the same kind of uniform that their father or uncle wears. They save their money and spend it here.

Abbasi emphasizes the importance of cultivating young customers. He notes that some of his adult customers today began shopping in his store as children.

"If you are friendly with kids, they tell their friends. Because of this publicity, I don't have to advertise. The kids advertise for us. When they see such respect and love, they want to help and they buy more merchandise."

"If you take care of your young customers and they take care of you," he added.

Abbasi continues to sell large quantities of Woodland camo to both children and adults. He estimates that his sales are divided 50/50 between Woodland and digital camo. Children and teenagers buy both.

Flight jackets are another popular youth item. Young people prefer colorful jackets with military patches.

"The more patches, the more they like it," Abbasi said.

He advises merchants to set up a separate youth department.

"Then the kids can see their own section with many interesting items that attract them," he said.

Hirsch also finds that young people like flight jackets and leather jackets with military patches.

Hirsch continues to enjoy strong sales of Woodland BDU in children's sizes.

Although he sells ACUs, their sales have not caught up to Woodland, Hirsch observed.

"Woodland camo has been around for a long time and people are still buying it. But ACU sales are beginning to grow because people are getting used to them.

Cohen has seen a surge in sales of youth merchandise over the past three years. As a result, he has moved an Army jeep that has been a long time prop in his store to the center of his children's department. On the jeep he displays military toys-guns, tanks and planes - that complement his military apparel.

"It is the focus of our youth department," said Cohen, who displays children's apparel on walls and in counters.

Cohen sells children's sizes in two-piece BDUs and one-piece coveralls with insignias. BDUs in desert, Woodland and urban still are popular with children.

"We go all the way from infants to big sizes," said Cohen. "We have seen a trend for more ACU and digital camo for adults, but there isn't much out there yet for children."

"Anything that is military in infant sizes we have," said Cohen. "All the infant novelty stuff has been selling, obviously stronger during the Christmas season and at Halloween, but they have become staples."

Television coverage of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan has created a demand for digital camo, said Ottaviano. He compares the psychological mechanism to the demand for new basketball jerseys following the return of Michael Jordan.

"When he retired, his number was 23," said Ottaviano. "Then he took 45 when he came back, forcing every kid who was a Michael Jordan fan to get a jersey with 45. The new digital pattern, that kids are seeing on CNN has created a brand new demand."

Although Rothco's military sales are not at the peak that they were at the beginning of the war, sales of the digital patterns are increasing. Ottaviano notes that while public opinion has shifted against the war, the public still supports the soldiers.

Sales of Rothco's MA-1 and M-65 jackets in children's sizes are still strong, as are one piece fight suits.

Infant clothing is another strong segment. Rothco is adding one-piece jumper suits and t-shirts in digital and pink camo.

"The majority of retailers are marketing to boys but they have to expand children's outerwear or infant wear," said Ottaviano.