Steak-and-treasurehouse; Turn-of-the-century showplace in Jersey; requisite fare served with...

Rounding out half a century of Keller family ownership, The Madison Hotel in Morris Township exerts an ever more powerful pull on the appetites of discriminating diners.

On eight manicured acres, it's often called Rod's 1890s Restaurant & Hotel. Rod Keller Sr.'s tireless pursuit, conducted in the 1950s and 1960s, of turn-of-the-century artifacts large and larger results in a charming gilded assemblage.

Taking up the torch, his heirs -- Richard, Gene and Peter Keller and Kathy Donohue -- have burnished colorful components, such as two splendidly restored parl