Cafe L'Europe

Elegant, distinguished and as warm as the sun-kissed hamlet it calls home, Cafe L'Europe is as much a living, breathing resident of Palm Beach, Fla., as the locals themselves. Over a storied quarter-century history, Norbert and Lidia Göldner's bastion of fine dining has remained iconic

At Cafe L'Europe removing the signature Wiener schnitzel from the menu can stir up revolt among loyal diners even as the kitchen crafts contemporary dishes such as chilled minted-pea soup or sugar-dusted scallops. It is a place where a community of diners has been established, where guests crowd the dining room dressed to the nines every Oscar night and masquerade in elaborate costumes each Halloween; where men's jackets still are required in the dining room and a phalanx of gleaming Rolls-Royces, Bentleys and Ferraris lines the parking lot; and where the happy-hour drink of choice is not beer or martinis but flutes of champagne.

The Göldners' formula is perfectly suited to the setting, a marriage of classic and contemporary that creates an atmosphere richly appointed in comfort and class.

Palm Beach's fluid population of year-round residents, seasonal dwellers, vacationers and conventioneers today plays host to numerous high-end kitchens dishing up their own takes on cutting-edge cuisine, but the dining landscape was different when Cafe L'Europe arrived in 1980.

"A lot of Florida really was a culinary no-man's land. Everything was mom and pop, everything was very simple," says Co-owner and Executive Chef Norbert Göldner, who still works the line in the kitchen most nights while wife and co-owner Lidia Göldner oversees the front of the house.

A Continental Touch

Observing competitors built mainly on single cuisines such as Italian or French, the couple aimed for a more Continental perspective indicated in the restaurant's name.

"I said: 'Let's draw on everything around Europe. If we want to serve Greek salad with feta, or Wiener schnitzel, we can. If we want to do ravioli or risotto, let's do that," he recalls.

Their open-minded menu approach has served Cafe L'Europe well, allowing the cuisine to evolve without bowing to fads. The southern Florida locale yields a bounty of fresh seafood and produce, and even as Asian influences have crept in over the years, French classicism still guides preparations, with a shift away from heavy cream and butter sauces to juices and light oils.

"You don't want to become the dinosaur, but you also have to maintain some tradition. There has to be a balance," says the chef, who scorns the idea of change for its own sake.

Göldner collaborates daily with his kitchen team to craft a bill of fare that both honors and belies the restaurant's age. The regular menu, which changes three to four times a year, speaks to classical influences: roasted rack of lamb with goat cheese and potato tart, baby vegetables and rosemary jus; muscovy duck breast and leg confit with sautéed dumplings, braised Savoy cabbage and cranberry sauce; and, of course, Wiener schnitzel with spaetzle , red cabbage and sautéed spinach (the restaurant sells about 40 orders per day).

Specials—a staggering daily lineup of 10 to 15 choices including soups, appetizers, regular and vegetarian entrées, and cheeses—showcase more modern flavors and presentations, often spearheaded by Sous-chef Orlin McLendon.

"I like to mix things that really don't go together and see the reaction of the people, really get the palate going—sour and sweet, hot and cold," says McLendon, who came to Göldner's kitchen in October 2004 after working for several years with The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Co.

Leaving Room for Creativity

Other favorites are sampler-style dishes highlighting individual ingredients in preparations such as Lobster Paradise with grilled Maine lobster tempura, Florida spiny lobster mango salad and mango consommé; and Taste of Florida Tomatoes, featuring tomato-mozzarella salad, roasted toybox tomato gazpacho, and tomato-basil flan with aged balsamic vinegar.

Though he oversees the culinary details, Göldner encourages McLendon and the kitchen staff's creativity.

"You respect a man who has been in the business as long [as Norbert has]. Sometimes I think he doesn't know what to do if he's not cooking," says McClendon, who often sits for hours after service amid the wall-to-wall culinary tomes in the chef's office, listening to colorful tales of Göldner's long history in the industry.

Among staff and colleagues alike, anecdotes about Norbert and Lidia speak to their dedication as well as their perfectionism: Norbert driving to Miami to pick up an extra 6,000 tulips to fill out sparse arrangements delivered for a guest's private party; Lidia bringing from home her own artist's series signed champagne glasses to lend a special touch to an event. Guests and employees note the couple's knack for remembering birthdays, anniversaries, children's names and any number of details, a talent shared by longtime Maître d' Bruce Strickland, a Cafe L'Europe fixture for 25 years.

Still a see-and-be-seen spot among Palm Beach's old guard and, increasingly, for residents of new nearby condos and luxury hotels that are spurring the town's renaissance, Cafe L'Europe remains a focal point of Palm Beach society, as do the Göldners themselves.

"There is no limit to what they will do for customers," says Ted Balestreri, co-owner of Ivy Award-winner The Sardine Factory Restaurant in Monterey, Calif. "They're just a terrific, charming couple, and full of energy. Wherever they go, they're the life of the party."

Contact writer at aperlik@reedbusiness.com