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Tabletop Trends: How Should You Decorate Your Tables?

Although a restaurant's concept typically dictates the style of its tabletop décor, many chefs involved in the process like to put their own stamp on it.

The InterContinental Boston's Chef Didier Montarou says he prefers to put his own signature on the tabletop. “We start from the concept

as far as the type of restaurant and then find tabletop items no one else has to help set us apart,” he says.

Creating a signature look may involve sourcing unique products from overseas or having a manufacturer make a custom piece. Chef Didier recently did the latter, creating his own honeycomb design on an olive oil plate.

Anne Ladd, showroom manager for S.S. Kemp & Co., a Cleveland-based dealer, says tabletop choices should be highly dependent on both the application and end-user. Yet, there are some givens when it comes to décor. “Today, we're seeing people stick with one texture. For example, if we're using a black caddy, the accessories on the table will be black. We may incorporate complementary pieces like wrought-iron breadbaskets or black towers to bring appetizers to the table. If we are using brushed chrome, which is currently popular, everything will remain consistent with this metal,” she says.

Mid-level casual foodservice operations typically look for tableware with height. “Now that the price points for these items have come down, operators are more receptive to using something that is tiered. This is especially true for lounge areas and bars with limited space,” Ladd says. The narrower, eclectic pieces can be used for the popular Spanish tapas or mixed appetizers.

By working on the kitchen menu and building off of it for the tableware, operators can first decide how they will use specific tabletop items. “This way, we can fit almost everything they want in. We won't need to leave SKUs out because we will be getting multiple items together this way,” Ladd says.

China & Dinnerware

Chef Didier says the importance of china cannot be overstated. “It is very important, because it does a lot for food by dressing it up. Years ago, no one paid attention to the china. Now, 50 percent of a meal's success is due to the plate it is served on. Customers look at the food before they taste it, so the china has to make an impression,” he says.

At the InterContinental Boston's Miel “Brasserie Provencal,” a full-service Provencal-themed restaurant, the mix of contemporary dishes and plates along with traditional shapes imported from Asia and Spain are what set the food's presentation apart.

Plate shapes mimicking rugby footballs and spaceships in white provide a nice contrast to the food, as opposed to rustic designs and bright colors, Chef Didier says. “And, for banquets, the combination oven has allowed us to be more creative with plate shapes, since we no longer need to accommodate round lids to cover the food.”

Sturdiness, too, is important to operators. In the past, operators sought attractive plates, regardless of their durability, according to Alexa Kinney, sales consultant and owner at R.W. Smith & Co., a dealership headquartered in San Diego. Today, her customers are more likely to choose a solid china that holds up to heavy use and offers a decent replacement warranty.

Taking durability into consideration, many of R.W. Smith's high-volume clients, such as banquet operations, stadiums and resorts, are moving from glass or china to the more durable melamine or acrylic. “Some of our clients won't even look at glass dinnerware because it is just too delicate,” Kinney says.

Case in point, the company recently provided St. Louis Cardinals' new Busch Stadium, which opened this past baseball season, with three-tier acrylic risers for use in its VIP suites. “This material lasts longer than glass, and operators don't have to worry about breakage by dish handlers,” Kinney says.

Some manufacturers will even duplicate their glass or china lines using acrylic upon request. “This material is pretty affordable, although custom items would cost more,” Kinney says.

One trend that hasn't changed is the seemingly never-ending array of plate shapes. These have become even more unique and abundant in recent years. While the triangle was the first unique shape when it was launched about a decade ago, this has fallen by the wayside as more unique and varied lines are unveiled, according to Jay Chernoff, corporate product manager for glassware, dinnerware and flatware for North Riverside, Ill.-based Edward Don. “Squares continue to be popular as far as plates and accent pieces for desserts, salads and appetizers. We also are seeing more use of rectangles for main dishes,” he says.

Kinney adds that some manufacturers have taken plate shapes to a new level by offering unique textures that set the lines apart. “For example, contemporary shapes will have waves built in or plates will be designed to look like they are floating on the table,” she says.

Plate size, too, is evolving. While resorts are more likely to use larger plates, miniature lines have become popular in upscale restaurants and hotel bars. This is in response to the trendy miniature meals, which most likely stem from the popularity of tapas. “The big thing we're seeing is an increasing number of operators offering a miniatures menu. Instead of appetizers or tapas, this is a scaled-down portion of a meal. So rather than an 8-ounce steak, customers could order a 3- or 4-ounce version,” Kinney says.

To accommodate smaller portions, some operators use a 12-by-12-inch square plate as the base and put smaller dishes on top to hold the various menu items. “There may be four square plates, two bigger squares or even triangular-shaped dishes placed together on top of a larger, single plate. The arrangement can vary by meal,” Kinney explains, adding that mini cast-iron dishware also is popular for use with these mini meals.

Chernoff, too, sees more use of smaller bowls and cups on today's tabletops. These include ramekins for smaller tastings and sauces.

Like plates, bowl shapes have become more varied. Ladd notes that today's lines are more wide open, curved and deeper with a wider edge. “There are no plain bowls anymore. I haven't sold a traditional looking bowl in months,” she says.

When it comes to color preferences for china and dinnerware, white remains the predominant choice as it best showcases the meal. Kinney likens the plate to an artist's canvas. Rather than American white, which tends to have an ivory base, the soft European white hue is more prevalent, according to Ladd.

Along with colorless plates, more operators continue to seek to add hand-painted bowls reminiscent of an Italian trattoria to their tables. “This offers a European feel, and these items are available in a variety of colors to match different motifs,” Kinney says.

Glassware Accommodates

As with plates and bowls, durability is a main concern when it comes to glassware. Yet style is not sacrificed, especially with today's stemware.

When ordering glassware, Chef Didier looks at both the design and the quality of a line. “I want to know how strong it is and how long it will last,” he says.

In terms of style, he veers towards the more traditional glassware for Miel's wines.

Rather than wine by the glass, Ladd sees more people warming up to wine served in decanters. “Also, it is a mixed review in terms of whether one or multiple glasses are used for red and white wines,” she says. “In terms of style, many operators are trying to take glassware away from the traditional etched glass and move towards more ergonomic-friendly styles.”

Textured glass continues to be popular, too. Kinney notes that a new style that has “stairs” within the glass is designed to open up the wine when it is poured, which enhances its flavor. “You can tell the difference when tasting it,” she says.

Chernoff also sees an increase in uniquely shaped bowls with stemware. “Bowls that are angled let younger wines open up and be at their best. It is a relatively new shape in glassware,” he says.

With more Americans becoming virtual wine connoisseurs, operators continue to seek higher-end stemware to accommodate their growing list of Bordeaux and Merlots. “Customers are looking for stemware that is $5 to $6 each as opposed to $2 and $3 to better showcase their wine offerings,” he says.

Like wine, high-end and premium tequilas also have increased in popularity, and on its heels has arrived smaller, upscale glassware to best showcase it, Chernoff says.

Flatware & Serving Ware

Unlike china and dinnerware patterns, flatware patterns can be difficult to choose because of the more limited selections and options, Chef Didier says. “I try to look for something heavy and unusual. I don't want the flatware looking cheap.”

End-users continue to perceive heavier-weight flatware as better quality, Chernoff says. As a result, the popularity of forged flatware carved from one piece of metal rather than the manufactured stamped variety continues to increase. “Forged metal is heavier and has a more solid feel,” he says.

In terms of designs, today's operators seek patterns that look good but are not too busy, says Ladd. “This includes clean lines and minimal squiggles, curly cues or etchings,” she notes.

The same may hold true for linens, as no real trends were noted in this segment. Chef Didier says while in the past tablecloths were typically used to help improve the look of a table, restaurants are now more apt to use them for a more obscure backdrop. Miel uses a three-layer tablecloth that helps portray a more upscale appearance.

Tabletops of the future may take cues from today's creative buffet displays. Kinney sees creative chefs suspending stainless-steel tables from the ceiling that are filled with appetizers, creating tables full of wheat grass or green stems topped with “flowers” of hors d'oeuvres and contorted stainless-steel spoons and forks containing fruit or cheese samples.

With chefs' limitless creativity and the ever-increasing selection of unique and innovative products geared for tabletops, the future of this segment knows no bounds.

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