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Changing Patterns

By Rebecca Oliva
Publication: Hotels
Date: Saturday, May 1 2004

Today's hot, new hotel restaurant concepts strive to give guests one-of-a-kind experiences. One extreme is the visual salute to filmmaker Fellini at La Frusta, inside Boscolo's Exedra hotel in Rome. At the other end of the spectrum is the high-tech approach to order taking at Holiday Inn's Kemms Cafe, which debuted at the brand's new prototype hotel in Duluth, Georgia.

At the same time, celebrity chefs continue to display their culinary ingenuity in hotels as they team-up with hoteliers looking to make a splash in hot destination markets. For example, Chef Charlie Trotter has plunged into the Los Cabos, Mexico, resort market with his haute cuisine at restaurant C at One&Only Palmilla. Another rising star, Angela Hartnett, broke tradition by replacing conventional cuisine with modern European fare at MENU at The Connaught in London. One.waterfront at Cape Grace in Cape Town, South Africa, offers culinary ingenuity with Chef Bruce Robertson's take on South African cuisine. And, East at Carlisle Bay in Antigua, boldly enters the market with its contemporary Asian cuisine, a novelty for this island.

From top to bottom, ingredients to décor, these restaurants want to introduce their guests to a new style of dining out. While their successes will depend largely on their execution, their willingness to push the F&B envelope is already a victory.

C, One&Only Palmilla, Los Cabos, Mexico

Charlie Trotter's first venture outside of the United States at Kerzner International's much-touted One&Only Palmilla resort in Los Cabos, Mexico, quickly has become a destination in its own right. The ultra-modern, ultra-plush restaurant, part of a US$90 million renovation, already has received accolades from guests and critics alike. And it is not without reason—C marks the beginning of a new era of sophisticated dining in Los Cabos.

"We incorporated a very modern look to the restaurant—one that is totally new to the destination," says Edward Steiner, managing director and vice president of operations, Mexico, One&Only Resorts. "Typical restaurants in Cabos are done in traditional Mexican fashion. They are not as sophisticated and contemporary as C."

In searching for a niche, Steiner says One&Only management wanted Trotter because his name—not to mention his culinary ability—is highly recognized by the U.S. market, which accounts for the majority of the property's guests. "He is not married to any style of cuisine," Steiner says. "His cuisine is totally contemporary." The flexibility in Trotter's cuisine lends itself well to the Mexican location as Steiner says the restaurant presents a gourmet take on local flavors.

Pacific salmon with mustard spaetzle and bell peppers "en escabeche"; and Sweet water prawns and Kumamoto oysters with preserved papaya, avocado & spicy herb sauce exemplify the result of using fresh ingredients with Trotter's innovative style. Further enhanced by Trotter's hand-selected wine list, the menu is distinguishable from other eateries in the area, Steiner says.

The atmosphere is no less disappointing. C boasts panoramic views of the Sea of Cortez, features two glass-enclosed wine rooms and a cellar private dining room. Inspired by the sea, the color palette includes frosted blue glass walls with flickering bulbs, and a fish tank to separate the open kitchen from the dining room, which allows guests a peek at the culinary mastery.

East, Carlisle Bay, Antigua

The signature restaurant in Gordon Campbell Gray's Carlisle Bay, Antigua, is no less impressive than the resort in which it resides. East is the best of Asian-style cuisine cooked in a European fashion using Caribbean ingredients. Sound unusual? It is, and Food and Beverage Director Seong-Tae Ahn says that is what makes it one of the most popular restaurants on the island—there is nothing quite like it.

"There are no Asian restaurants on the island," Ahn says. "We wanted to do Asian cuisine, but we did not want to go the traditional way." Management at the 88-room hotel also didn't want to repeat the classic island-style or French restaurant found on almost every corner. Instead, they chose to create a modern space that would draw guests' minds to the East without losing the calming effects of island ambience. "We did not want to create an atmosphere too distant in spirit. It is not fine dining—there is no fussy dress code," Ahn says.

The result is unusually dramatic décor, mixing vibrant peony pink-covered chairs with dark, barren walls and tables. Bamboo plants are scattered throughout the space, and there is no artwork on the walls to keep it simplistic. Guests enter East through hand-carved, oversized Indonesian doors, which let them know they are leaving the island behind.

The theatrical ambience is a mere backdrop for the performance in the kitchen. "We are playing a lot with the flavors and cooking methods of the food," says Chef Philippe Wagenfuhrer. Working with local farmers, Wagenfuhrer and his staff try to use ingredients naturally found in the area. The menu covers everything from simple Asian favorites such as prawn spring rolls to the more intense flavors of green and red curries. Wagenfuhrer uses fresh fish and seafood from the area, such as Mahi Mahi, which he pan-fries with pumpkin, and serves on Japanese noodles. For dessert, interesting selections include light cheese juice with mint, thyme and rhubarb; or green tea crème brûlée.

Angela Hartnett's MENU at The Connaught, The Connaught, London

When London's The Connaught hired a new executive chef after 25 years, it quickly became one of the most talked about chef changeovers in the city. The retirement of Chef Michel Bourdin inspired Anthony Lee, general manager of the 92-room hotel, to make a change to "fit with the times." He chose up-and-coming Chef Angela Hartnett, whose modern cuisine reignited The Connaught's dining scene. Yet with 70% of the hotel's guests being repeat customers, the change was met with apprehension. "Often you find there is a fear within the more traditional hotels to make those necessary changes, but you have to be very certain that you are in tune with the market to have a new generation and new people coming into your hotel," Lee says. "The danger is that if you are not brave enough to embrace these changes."

Hartnett, a protégé of Gordon Ramsey, breathes new life into old favorites such as English puddings and traditional meat dishes. Instead of heavy cream sauces, Hartnett's British-Mediterranean dishes gravitate toward lighter cooking with menu items such as pumpkin tortelli with cremona mustard fruits and sage butter and pan-fried sea bass with red pepper couscous. "Angela is a very talented young chef. Her menu is more reasonable than our original menu—not as long and not as extensive, but her talent within the menu is extraordinary," Lee says.

Harnett's style of cooking stems from her Italian background and has been developed by her experience at such places as Aubergine and Amaryllis. While Italian dishes are not obvious on the menu, their influences are: onion ravioli, 24-year-old balsamic vinegar and Parmesan shavings accompany items such as the roasted breast of quail. Other Italian influences can be seen on the dessert menu: lemon pannacotta with thyme syrup and compote of blueberries.

In addition to the updated menu, the design was refreshed as well. Interior Designer Nina Campbell revitalized the restaurant with softened lighting and muted colors. Tables are adorned with Murano glass lamps to add drama. To maintain a certain level of tradition, the restaurant's trademark paneled walls and traditional English fireplace were included.

Lee asserts that the changes in the F&B department were well worth it. "We were missing out on the local crowd, and now we have a terrific following of local people who love to come and dine with us," he says. "I think the main thing to get over was that she wasn't going to do the same thing—the menu would be different but it would be just as good. Looking back on the change it has been a great success."

One.Waterfront, Cape Grace, Capetown, South Africa

Guests are not only "wowed" by the spectacular views of Table Mountain at One.Waterfront, they are also impressed with Chef Bruce Robertson's out-of-the-ordinary take on South African cuisine. Robertson describes his food as a subtle synthesis of classical- and contemporary-styled dishes with ingredients unique to South Africa. He infuses his cuisine with indigenous influences such as West Coast oysters, ostrich and springbok—a mix of sophistication and local flavor. "It is a new mode of food," Robertson says. "We like to call it graphic food. I strongly believe people eat with their eyes first—and this style of cooking takes that into consideration."

One.Waterfront's menu reads like a typical international restaurant, but a closer look reveals it is anything but typical. For example, Robertson's definition of fish and chips is tempura kingklip with rustic-cut chips served with cottage cheese tartar. Oysters are wrapped with seaweed and dressed with soy tomato concasse and a lime and pesto aioli. One of the most unusual recipes is the crème caramel of quail, a new take on the traditional dessert, which combines quail, stock, gelatin and "jus." Cannelloni is stuffed with waterblonnetjies, a natural water plant indigenous to South Africa, and mixed with feta and sun-dried tomatoes.

The options are endless for these quirky dishes. Yet Robertson is quick to point out that quirky doesn't mean unsophisticated. "I think at the end of the day it is all about classics," he says. "Once you have the cooking right, only then can you play with the food." This cooking philosophy has helped One.Waterfront attract more than just hotel guests, as 50% of its clientele is local. "In South Africa, not a lot of people are doing what we are doing," he says. "We are just always pushing to break the culinary boundaries—and we are in need of that in South Africa."

To keep with the local flavors, more than 95% of the décor and artwork is locally produced, including original paintings by contemporary South African artists and the hand-woven carpet.

Kemms Café, Holiday Inn Gwinnett Center, Duluth, Georgia

Holiday Inn's new prototype hotel is a mixture of high-tech gadgets and comfort amenities, and the restaurant follows suit. Kemms Café is anything but an average mid-market, family-oriented restaurant. Named after the chain's founder, Kemmons Wilson, the café boasts the use of wireless electronic menus allowing customers to view a list of options updated in real time and experience the future of dining.

"I think we would have been remissed to create this new prototype without creating a proprietary restaurant," says Mark Snyder, senior vice president, brand management, Holiday Inn Hotels & Resorts, North America. "Typically, these owners are not in the restaurant business. What we wanted to do is step up and say we have a restaurant concept that is turnkey and could help you make and enhance the revenue stream at your hotel."

Holiday Inn management also wanted to create a restaurant that could advance the brand into the future with user-friendly technology. Guests have the option of using paper menus or the e-menus, which include photos of the dishes as well as nutritional information. The e-menus communicate directly with the kitchen and servers via their PDA-like devices. "There is a big move in the hotel category to create enabling technology," Snyder says. "Most [hotels] are putting the technology in the hands of the employees. Our approach is to give it to the customers—who are already very adept at using technology."

The e-menus also double as entertainment. After guests input their orders they can browse a limited Internet to check news, stocks or search for additional hotel and travel information. And if that is not enough, there are flat screen televisions complete with cable at each of the restaurant's 12 booths.

While guests are catapulted into the future by technology, the menu brings them back to the brand's roots. "Wilson loved his foods like he loved his hotels: simple, straightforward and a lot of it," Snyder says. Those preferences are the inspiration for the menu, which includes American comfort food such as meatloaf—which accounts for 40% of orders—cheeseburgers, apple pie and fried chicken. All dishes arrive pre-cooked at the hotel and can be rethermalized in minutes—allowing the hotels to operate with a limited staff. Holiday Inn hopes to capitalize further on Kemmons Wilson's name with the introduction of the Kemm's Collection, a selection of salad dressings and sauces especially designed for the new restaurant. The bottled sauces eventually will be available for sale.

La Frusta, Exedra, a Boscolo Luxury Hotel, Rome

In a town where classic Italian trattorias, caffes and ristorantes reign, La Frusta enters Rome with a modern flair. La Frusta, or "the Whip," is one of very few restaurants in Italy that is as much about the total dining experience as it is about the food. The restaurant pays homage to Roman-born moviemaker Federico Fellini by surrounding guests with movie scenes from the Oscar-winning 8 e mezzo .

The restaurant's theme of Fellini's 1963 semi-autobiographical story about a worshipped filmmaker who has lost his inspiration is apparent throughout the space with still photos of movie scenes. Designed by Tihany Design, New York, red, white and black are the predominant colors, which are reflected constantly by using mirrors and glass.

The menu also has an interesting twist: Students of the nearby Etoile Culinary School are invited to flaunt their culinary skills for guests. "Today the Oscar goes to the chefs whose creations are a blend of refinement and innovation," says Caracciolo Francesca Romana, assistant manager of the 240-room hotel. The menu is a journey throughout Italy with dishes from specific regions. Traditional dishes are updated with modern cooking trends and options that include Mediterranean-style soufflé of prawns in sour cream and ricotta cheese with orange-flavored zucchini fondue.

Direct comments to: roliva@reedbusiness.com

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