haute cuisine or soup du jour?
From the dawn of stone age implements to the height of culinary
technique, man has enjoyed his soup. During the early days of hunters
and gatherers the skill of making pottery was learned and passed on
through nomadic tribes. The formation of such pot
vessels increased the
dining repertoire of Mesopotamia man-boiling now an option--hot pots of
soupy contents were possible. Archaeological researchers in Switzerland
unearthed early forms of pottery, the contents of which, revealed a
recipe for a type of berry, wheat, nut, and fish porridge (Acton). In
Asia, soupy elixirs were brewed to heal any collection of ailments.
Cooking vessels vastly improved during the Bronze Age as the craft of
making the vessels took on more artistic qualities. The porridges and
soups of ancient Rome are some of the earliest recorded recipes. Pultes
tractogalatae or milk soup, a combination of dried dough, milk, and
honey, was a staple. Varieties of kale, barley, and vegetable soups
enriched with mulsum, a honey-wine, were also among the culinary
delights in Pompeii. By the Middle Ages, "porridges" were the
rage in Europe. Combinations of oats and milk gradually gave way to
fragrant herb and spice gruels of nuts, meat, and seafood. One such
dish, le stockfish originated in the late 1400s with the arrival of
seafaring traders from Norway who brought with them salted, dried cod.
The stew of soaked cod, egg, butter, cream, and a generous amount of oil
became popular in the coastal provinces of southern France (Pitt-Rivers
11). Until the 1600s these soup-like meals eaten from bread vessels were
common fare. Though chicken was the meat of choice, mainstay potages
were studded with beef, pork, swan, stork, peacock, crane, and even
whale (Kiple and Ornelas 1211). Originally, bisque was used to describe
any highly spiced dish of boiled meat or game (Montagne 99). The 1690
publication of Antoine Furetiere's Dictionaire universal documents
this definition:
An exquisite soup made with the several pigeons, chickens, offals,
lamb jus, and other good ingredients, it is no wonder it was served on
the table of grand Sirs. The word bisque comes from the word "bis
cocta" or greyish-casserole, because it is made with many offal
tidbits, it is necessary to cook the offals separately before they are
combined and cooked together. A fish bisque is made from a forcemeat of
carp, carp eggs, carp milk, and shrimp.
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